I have been doing mostly two kinds of shopping during this stay in Paris and they're both pretty friendly for the wallet. I've been doing lots of bargain hunting, mostly sales and second hand shops, and even more window shopping, or window "licking", léche vitres, as the french say (or so my dictionary once told me, I have never actually heard someone use that unhygienic expression).
Obviously, if you need to buy clothes, window shopping won't do. But if you don't shop out of pure necessity but more just for the pleasure of beautiful things, in Paris window shopping is a real alternative to actually going in and spending money. You can stand behind a window and lovingly gaze that Chloé bag that's made of leather that looks like it will feel like a perfectly ripe peach and that sells for a four or five digit number of euros. And when it comes to an object like that, you know that juts looking is enough. You know you would never put that much money on a bag even if you had that money. Because that money would buy you a really nice trip somewhere. So you look and leave, feeling relieved that so much beauty can go into such a useful object. And hoping to bump into a Richard Gere in Pretty Woman -character right around the corner as well, because he probably would pay money like that for a bag and wouldn't mind offering it to you.
The category of window shopping also includes walking into a shop and just looking and touching things you know you can't afford now, but maybe on your next visit... I always go and say hi to the K. Jacques sandals that are waiting for me patiently. Same thing with shops like Mellow Yellow, Kooples, Loft and the rest that sell gorgeous things that are not cheap but definately affordable for someone who actually gets paid unlike me at the moment. So you can also call it background research for my future wardrobe. And also background research for the soldes...
For the bargains there are two main things: SOLDES and second hand. It's as simple as that for me. I'm not some fashion industry personality that gets invited to some private fashion people clubs that organize secret sales operations. So if you would like to know more about those, find yourself a real fashion blog.
The great soldes, the big sales take place every winter and every summer and they should not be missed. And obviously if you are planning to do some shopping in Paris, do it during the soldes. They last for a couple of weeks and as usual, the discounts get bigger as the stock gets smaller. This is the time when even an average stagiaire might be able to offer herself something more than H&M. I always use this opportunity to buy some lovely quality underwear, Princesse Tam Tam is my favorite. The summer sales are always end of june, beginning of july and winter sales in january-february. Google "soldes paris" and you will probably get exact dates since they are somehow controlled by law.
And for second hand, there are many little guidebooks around that list the second hand shops around Paris. The overall level here is great but the prices vary a lot. Obviously if you want to buy vintage 60's Chanel that has not been used, it might be more expensive than the latest season Chanel. Then there are the usual second hand/vintage shops that buy their clothes from stocks and choose them carefully, such as Hippy Market (Rue de Turbigo & rue Clignancourt) and Kiliwatch. The thing with shops like this is that they also take big margins and sometimes they are on the expensive side. Especially in comparison to charity shops like my beloved Guerrisol. But on the other hand, unlike in Guerrisol, you don't need to inspect the garment for stains etc. before buying it. But I just can't resist mentioning that I just bought another 3 euro dress from Guerrisol yesterday...
Aug 14, 2011
Aug 5, 2011
Les Musées
Everyone knows that when in Paris, you should always visit a museum. Especially if it's the first sunday of the month, since then most of them are free, notably the "important" ones such as Louvre, Musée d'Orsay or Quai Branly. I haven't been to all the museums in Paris, but here's what I think of the ones that I've been to. And I'm being super nice and adding a link to all of their websites that you can acces by clicking the name of the museum. Magic.
MUSÉE DU LOUVRE
This is THE museum in Paris. THE one they say you MUST visit and you MUST go and see Mona Lisa. Well. This is my fourth time in Paris, and the second time I live in the parisian area and only now I felt like I MUST visit Louvre (well, it was really more like "I guess I should go, especially since it's free, why not"). I went with Justine and Helena on a free sunday. The queue was pretty impressive, but it did advance and it took a little less than two hours to get in. We had some sandwiches and a friendly conversation with a canadian couple waiting in line behind us. When we got in, we obviously wanted to get the most important thing to do in the Louvre done: direction italian renaissance and Mona Lisa. And there it was. Behind a wall of holiday hats and cameras. A tight wall. No way to penetrate all the way to the painting. I would smile like that also if I caused such a commotion. Obviously it's a fine piece of art. But I did find da Vinci's transvestite-esque version of John the Baptist much more intriguing. It hangs close by and there's plenty of space around it.
I personnally found the Egypt and Greece -sections more interesting than the italian renaissance, but that's simply because it's not my favorite period at all and the style just doesn't really speak to me. Too much detail, too little color for me. But just a question of taste. Of course I have a huge admiration for the technique and all that. But just not my cup of tea.
The museum is HUGE, so there really is no way to see everything on one go.
Still not my favourite, and to be honest I prefer the British Museum when it comes to the historic objects, but I'm still very glad I went. The building in itself is worth the visit. Don't forget to peek out the windows, you just might get a perfect view over the Tuileries all the way over Arc de Triomphe to the Défense, ideally all bathing in the intense glow of a midsummer parisian sun.
MUSÉE D'ORSAY
Musée d'Orsay is my favorite of the "big" parisian art museums. The building is an old railway station situated right on the banks of Seine opposite Louvre and Tuileries. This museum holds some of my all time favorite paintings. I love impressionists and they're what Orsay is all about. Monét, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Manet, just to mention the biggest stars. The basic collection is already enough but they also have fantastic changing exhibitions that are always thoughtfully constructed and don't only showcase the masterpieces of an artist or of some theme, but also introduce the surrounding people and events as well as some less known works that showcase a whole new side of the artist in question. This is how I discovered the cigarette smoking gypsy woman by Manet. She's still hanging on my wall and probably will hang on the wall of my next home as well, I just wish she was in a poster format instead of a postcard. The shop is also full of treasures and the most fascinating books.
Tourists are a plenty, of course, but it's just an amusing little addition to the visit to observe how some people manage to visit an art museum in a way that they see the minimum of paintings. A good start is not to take off your sunglasses, now who would like to see the colours that impressionist paintings are all about? Also walk very fast in the middle of the corridor where you're as far as possible from the paintings on both sides, and if you have company, talk to them about something totally unrelated. If you are alone, type text messages. Best thing to do is to sit on a bench close to the entrance wearing sunglasses and typing text messages/going through the photos you've taken.
They also have the rudest people selling tickets. If they get confused using the credit card machine (Help! A foreign Visa card in a world renowned art museum!) then it's your fault. You broke it. You and your weird-ass card. Oh, here's the boss. Oh miracle, it works.
On the other hand the people in the shop are normal.
MUSÉE D'ORANGERIE
If Orsay is my favorite of the "big" parisian art museums, Orangerie is my favorite of all parisian art museums. Mostly because it's very calm and not too big, so you don't overdose.
The flow of visitors is controlled, so not too many people are inside at once. That's mostly because of the main attraction of the museum, Monét's Nymphéas , the 8 wall size paintings of the water-lilies of his garden in Giverny (that can also be visited, haven't, yet). They are exhibited in specially constructed oval rooms with skylights that filter in the natural light. This is the ideal way to exhibit these impressionist masterpieces, since the impressionists were the first ones to take their canvases and brushes and paint outside, in the landscape. And that's why I find them so magical. I've been here a few times and every time the water-lilies look a bit different and every time I like different ones. The rest of the collection is also vast and this is where I first discovered Marie Laurencin, who's portrait of Coco Chanel accompanies the Manet cigarette-gypsy in my room. She uses colors that speak to me only in her work. And I love nothing more than starting to like something that I thought I couldn't enjoy, like country music, mustard or as in Laurencin's case, pastels.
They sell a combination ticket for Orangerie and Orsay and it is very much worth it. But I recommend that if you're planning to do them both on a same day, go to Orangerie first, since after Orsay, you will suffer for sure of at least a mild case of art overdose.
I also love the statue of lovers all over each other right outside the entrance (see picture).
MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLY
Quai Branly is a museum of cultures and of cultural history. It's also one of the most recent museums in Paris. The imposing modern building complex is a short walk from Tour Eiffel and only the building itself is worth a look. The permanent collection hosts all kinds of cultural artefacts from all over the world organized by continents and you visit them by following a "river". I've visited the permanent collection without audioguide but I thing it could be useful if you really like to know what the crazy masks and headrests are about. (I still don't know what headrests are about.) But the descriptions and videos along the "river" are pretty helpful and informative as well. And I always feel like they're not telling me everything on the audioguides and I can't stand the little "animation" they always put there "look, there comes the king for his dinner", music, king's footsteps, etc. No, I don't care about king's footsteps, tell me about the food he ate, the cutlery he used, the fabric of the chairs, etc. I want facts in a museum, for fiction I will go to the cinema or the theatre. So that's my problem with audioguides. Back to the subject of Quai Branly.
They also have changing exhibitions around a specific subject. I'm going tomorrow (it's the first sunday of august) to see a Maya exhibition and I'm pretty sure it will be great. I find the Mayas fascinating and I'm sure they've done a fantastic job at Quai Branly. But I will confirm this after tomorrow.
And for world culture fanatics (like me) the museum shop is a treasure cove. Obviously it has a lot of garbage trinkets and that (some of the garbage trinkets are actually pretty nice, since they're trinkets or jewelry fabricated by some people far away of recycled garbage) but it's also full of books, documentaries on dvd's and world music cd's. I know I will buy something again tomorrow. Last time I bought Karen Blixen's "Out of Africa" book and on dvd Mika Kaurismäki's "Moro No Brasil", a fantastic documentary about brazilian music. I also almost bought Bhagavad Gita, the 700-verse holy Hindu-script. And I might actually buy it tomorrow. That would make a great beach reading for Nice in a few weeks. I like the hindu philosophy a lot. But not enough to have a cow invade my living room though, I'm more into some of their ideas.
Also, the garden outside the museum with a restaurant is a great place to visit. A great place to read some Bhagavad Gita as well, I imagine.
This is THE museum in Paris. THE one they say you MUST visit and you MUST go and see Mona Lisa. Well. This is my fourth time in Paris, and the second time I live in the parisian area and only now I felt like I MUST visit Louvre (well, it was really more like "I guess I should go, especially since it's free, why not"). I went with Justine and Helena on a free sunday. The queue was pretty impressive, but it did advance and it took a little less than two hours to get in. We had some sandwiches and a friendly conversation with a canadian couple waiting in line behind us. When we got in, we obviously wanted to get the most important thing to do in the Louvre done: direction italian renaissance and Mona Lisa. And there it was. Behind a wall of holiday hats and cameras. A tight wall. No way to penetrate all the way to the painting. I would smile like that also if I caused such a commotion. Obviously it's a fine piece of art. But I did find da Vinci's transvestite-esque version of John the Baptist much more intriguing. It hangs close by and there's plenty of space around it.
I personnally found the Egypt and Greece -sections more interesting than the italian renaissance, but that's simply because it's not my favorite period at all and the style just doesn't really speak to me. Too much detail, too little color for me. But just a question of taste. Of course I have a huge admiration for the technique and all that. But just not my cup of tea.
The museum is HUGE, so there really is no way to see everything on one go.
Still not my favourite, and to be honest I prefer the British Museum when it comes to the historic objects, but I'm still very glad I went. The building in itself is worth the visit. Don't forget to peek out the windows, you just might get a perfect view over the Tuileries all the way over Arc de Triomphe to the Défense, ideally all bathing in the intense glow of a midsummer parisian sun.
Musée d'Orsay is my favorite of the "big" parisian art museums. The building is an old railway station situated right on the banks of Seine opposite Louvre and Tuileries. This museum holds some of my all time favorite paintings. I love impressionists and they're what Orsay is all about. Monét, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Manet, just to mention the biggest stars. The basic collection is already enough but they also have fantastic changing exhibitions that are always thoughtfully constructed and don't only showcase the masterpieces of an artist or of some theme, but also introduce the surrounding people and events as well as some less known works that showcase a whole new side of the artist in question. This is how I discovered the cigarette smoking gypsy woman by Manet. She's still hanging on my wall and probably will hang on the wall of my next home as well, I just wish she was in a poster format instead of a postcard. The shop is also full of treasures and the most fascinating books.
Tourists are a plenty, of course, but it's just an amusing little addition to the visit to observe how some people manage to visit an art museum in a way that they see the minimum of paintings. A good start is not to take off your sunglasses, now who would like to see the colours that impressionist paintings are all about? Also walk very fast in the middle of the corridor where you're as far as possible from the paintings on both sides, and if you have company, talk to them about something totally unrelated. If you are alone, type text messages. Best thing to do is to sit on a bench close to the entrance wearing sunglasses and typing text messages/going through the photos you've taken.
They also have the rudest people selling tickets. If they get confused using the credit card machine (Help! A foreign Visa card in a world renowned art museum!) then it's your fault. You broke it. You and your weird-ass card. Oh, here's the boss. Oh miracle, it works.
On the other hand the people in the shop are normal.
If Orsay is my favorite of the "big" parisian art museums, Orangerie is my favorite of all parisian art museums. Mostly because it's very calm and not too big, so you don't overdose.
The flow of visitors is controlled, so not too many people are inside at once. That's mostly because of the main attraction of the museum, Monét's Nymphéas , the 8 wall size paintings of the water-lilies of his garden in Giverny (that can also be visited, haven't, yet). They are exhibited in specially constructed oval rooms with skylights that filter in the natural light. This is the ideal way to exhibit these impressionist masterpieces, since the impressionists were the first ones to take their canvases and brushes and paint outside, in the landscape. And that's why I find them so magical. I've been here a few times and every time the water-lilies look a bit different and every time I like different ones. The rest of the collection is also vast and this is where I first discovered Marie Laurencin, who's portrait of Coco Chanel accompanies the Manet cigarette-gypsy in my room. She uses colors that speak to me only in her work. And I love nothing more than starting to like something that I thought I couldn't enjoy, like country music, mustard or as in Laurencin's case, pastels.
They sell a combination ticket for Orangerie and Orsay and it is very much worth it. But I recommend that if you're planning to do them both on a same day, go to Orangerie first, since after Orsay, you will suffer for sure of at least a mild case of art overdose.
I also love the statue of lovers all over each other right outside the entrance (see picture).
Quai Branly is a museum of cultures and of cultural history. It's also one of the most recent museums in Paris. The imposing modern building complex is a short walk from Tour Eiffel and only the building itself is worth a look. The permanent collection hosts all kinds of cultural artefacts from all over the world organized by continents and you visit them by following a "river". I've visited the permanent collection without audioguide but I thing it could be useful if you really like to know what the crazy masks and headrests are about. (I still don't know what headrests are about.) But the descriptions and videos along the "river" are pretty helpful and informative as well. And I always feel like they're not telling me everything on the audioguides and I can't stand the little "animation" they always put there "look, there comes the king for his dinner", music, king's footsteps, etc. No, I don't care about king's footsteps, tell me about the food he ate, the cutlery he used, the fabric of the chairs, etc. I want facts in a museum, for fiction I will go to the cinema or the theatre. So that's my problem with audioguides. Back to the subject of Quai Branly.
They also have changing exhibitions around a specific subject. I'm going tomorrow (it's the first sunday of august) to see a Maya exhibition and I'm pretty sure it will be great. I find the Mayas fascinating and I'm sure they've done a fantastic job at Quai Branly. But I will confirm this after tomorrow.
And for world culture fanatics (like me) the museum shop is a treasure cove. Obviously it has a lot of garbage trinkets and that (some of the garbage trinkets are actually pretty nice, since they're trinkets or jewelry fabricated by some people far away of recycled garbage) but it's also full of books, documentaries on dvd's and world music cd's. I know I will buy something again tomorrow. Last time I bought Karen Blixen's "Out of Africa" book and on dvd Mika Kaurismäki's "Moro No Brasil", a fantastic documentary about brazilian music. I also almost bought Bhagavad Gita, the 700-verse holy Hindu-script. And I might actually buy it tomorrow. That would make a great beach reading for Nice in a few weeks. I like the hindu philosophy a lot. But not enough to have a cow invade my living room though, I'm more into some of their ideas.
Also, the garden outside the museum with a restaurant is a great place to visit. A great place to read some Bhagavad Gita as well, I imagine.
Aug 4, 2011
Picnic spots
Picnics are the best. They just are, aren't they? Has someone ever been on a bad picnic? If yes, then it's their own fault really, I'm sure. In Paris, these have been my favourite picnic spots:
For places that I recommend avoiding, I'd say definitely that park on the side of the stairs of Sacré Coeur. It's filled with racaille characters who stare and try to start up a "hellooohelloo" conversation with anything remotely blonde. Often smells of pee. Lots of bees and pidgeons (and their droppings) who try to get their part. I also can't understand people having picnic on Pont des Arts (yeah, some of whom I know also, sorry guys but you already knew what I think...). It's crowded with teenagers and probable pick-pockets. Not to mention that the police passes by all the time and starts lecturing if you have some alcohol. And all the while, you could have parked a 1664-truck on the bank right next to the bridge and they wouldn't raise an eyebrow. So just don't picnic on the bridge, it's stupid, since you'll just be interrupted by the cops and feel embarrased. Have your picnic on the bank of Seine right next to the bridge and have a walk on the bridge before or after. Easy.
Also, if you need a picnic blanket, visit Coupons de St Pierre on Marché St Pierre right next to the Sacré Coeur. They sell 3m pieces of fabric for 5 €. And while you're there, you can also bye all the fabrics and tissues you will ever need in your life. It's THE neighbourhood for that. It has at least 20 smaller fabric shops, one giant, 5-floor one, a big shop selling zips, ribbons, buttons, etc. accessories, not to mention the fantastic shops selling only buttons. They look amazing, rows after rows of tubes of buttons organized by colours. And then there are the more extravagant ones that probably sell for a very certain clientele who wear lots of feathers, paillettes and gigantic hats, but probably have problems finding lamé-dresses in a men's size... And right next to it a shop selling only matress and pillow fillings or a shop selling only oriental dance costumes and accessories.
Oops, ventured a bit off the subject of picnics there I guess.
One of the great things to do when on a picnic in Paris is some "alpha-male research". Or you could also call it checking out the hot guys, but that sounds sleazy and slutty. Which it isn't. Obviously. We're just feeding our eyes while we feed our stomachs, that's all. And it's kind of similar to the idea that good food shouldn't be wasted. Well, it's such a waste if a perfect male specimen walks around and no-one looks at him! So actually we're doing him a favor, charity basically. Poor guy. You can come and cry on my shoulder anytime. No, I don't mind if you need a hug.
 |
| Buttes Chaumont |
- Parc de Buttes Chaumont (next to the "blue flowers", that might also be yellow, overlooking the gazebo)
- Jardin du Luxembourg (on the only "Pelouse autorisée", as in the only patch of grass you can walk/sit on, or then on the famous green chairs, that are so gorgeous I every time contemplate stealing one. I need to bring a bigger bag next time. Just watch out not to pick a declining model, but the more upright one, they're more convenient for eating/drinking. Also, check out the kind of disturbing kitten poster in the toilets, it's in the big booth.)
- Canal St Martin (on the bank opposite Antoine et Lili. No toilets, so prepare to sneak into a bar if you have to go.)
- Ile-St-Louis (westernmost end, a handy stone bench that can be used as a table. Usually crowded, no toilets close by, so not for long picnics/lots of drinks.)
- Place de Vosges (surprisingly calm, nice and bourgeois when you feel like that)
 | |
| The green chair of Jardin du Luxembourg |
 |
| Canal St Martin |
Also, if you need a picnic blanket, visit Coupons de St Pierre on Marché St Pierre right next to the Sacré Coeur. They sell 3m pieces of fabric for 5 €. And while you're there, you can also bye all the fabrics and tissues you will ever need in your life. It's THE neighbourhood for that. It has at least 20 smaller fabric shops, one giant, 5-floor one, a big shop selling zips, ribbons, buttons, etc. accessories, not to mention the fantastic shops selling only buttons. They look amazing, rows after rows of tubes of buttons organized by colours. And then there are the more extravagant ones that probably sell for a very certain clientele who wear lots of feathers, paillettes and gigantic hats, but probably have problems finding lamé-dresses in a men's size... And right next to it a shop selling only matress and pillow fillings or a shop selling only oriental dance costumes and accessories.
Oops, ventured a bit off the subject of picnics there I guess.
One of the great things to do when on a picnic in Paris is some "alpha-male research". Or you could also call it checking out the hot guys, but that sounds sleazy and slutty. Which it isn't. Obviously. We're just feeding our eyes while we feed our stomachs, that's all. And it's kind of similar to the idea that good food shouldn't be wasted. Well, it's such a waste if a perfect male specimen walks around and no-one looks at him! So actually we're doing him a favor, charity basically. Poor guy. You can come and cry on my shoulder anytime. No, I don't mind if you need a hug.
Aug 3, 2011
22 strange and unpleasant, if not quite traumatizing things I've seen on the Paris metro, PART 2.
9. A girl singing religious songs (the new, re-born-christian type) eyes closed with an asian accent (in french obviously). She did believe and sure hungered for a living god. I had the verse in my head for hours afterwards.
10. A guy begging for coins who was so drunk that he kept falling all over the place and people on the moving metro on and had problems spelling "une petite piéce, s'il vous plaît". A sad example of human condition but also a refreshing alternative to people explaining their entire life of misery. And at least you could see right away where he would spend his money.
11. A guy singing Boyzone's "Baby can I hold you tonight". No, please don't.
12. I thought I saw a really flashy lady, probably a go go dancer judging by her muscular legs. Then I looked a bit closer and realized that she was actually a he. But definitely the most gorgeous transvestite I have ever seen. I want those legs and that ass.
13. Not traumatizing at all this one. A big violin orchestra playing at Châtelet. You could hear them far away and it was a little bit magical. A great surprise on that most confusing metro station of them all.
10. A guy begging for coins who was so drunk that he kept falling all over the place and people on the moving metro on and had problems spelling "une petite piéce, s'il vous plaît". A sad example of human condition but also a refreshing alternative to people explaining their entire life of misery. And at least you could see right away where he would spend his money.
11. A guy singing Boyzone's "Baby can I hold you tonight". No, please don't.
12. I thought I saw a really flashy lady, probably a go go dancer judging by her muscular legs. Then I looked a bit closer and realized that she was actually a he. But definitely the most gorgeous transvestite I have ever seen. I want those legs and that ass.
13. Not traumatizing at all this one. A big violin orchestra playing at Châtelet. You could hear them far away and it was a little bit magical. A great surprise on that most confusing metro station of them all.
 |
| Violins at Châtelet |
Jul 30, 2011
More places where I ate
Last friday was a good food day. I ate out for both lunch and dinner. Tummy full, wallet empty...
Café d'Angel
16, rue Brey, 75017 Paris.
We had lunch with my collegues, one of whitch was leaving us to go back to Helsinki, here in this very sympatethic little bistro. "Typically french" and "typically parisian" are the two clichés that fit here perfectly and in a good way. Staff was helpful, food was good, clientele was local. Not the cheapest option at 24 € for a 2-course lunch menu, but the quality of the food was great. I had lieu jaune (probably "white fish" like all of them on english menus...) and liégois chocolat avec caramel beurre salé for dessert. Fish was oily and really well seasoned, really good and the dessert was hefty, chocolaty and with lots of caramel.
Tierra del Fuego
4-6 rue Sainte Marthe, 75010 Paris. www.tierradelfuego.fr
After the perfect 'Ti Punch at the colourful bar I can't remember the name of on the same street, we had a chilean dinner with Maaria and Henna at Tierra del Fuego. It's a cozy and colourful little restaurant run by two charming chileans, a father and son, Gonzalo and Carlo (I think). A three course menu is 20 €, I had a (YUMMY!!) ceviche and a (HUGE) chili con carne and mango mousse for dessert (desserts are tiny, but since the other two courses are truckdriver-size, a small dessert is just perfecto ). They also have a fantastic chilean wine selection, a rarity in Paris, since the french (for a perfectly good reason) love and cherish their own produce. Great food, great atmosphere, charming and fast service. Just one thing: If you (Henna) hate coriander, make sure to mention it. It's everywhere and it's a-plenty.
I do recommend I doooo!
Café d'Angel
16, rue Brey, 75017 Paris.
We had lunch with my collegues, one of whitch was leaving us to go back to Helsinki, here in this very sympatethic little bistro. "Typically french" and "typically parisian" are the two clichés that fit here perfectly and in a good way. Staff was helpful, food was good, clientele was local. Not the cheapest option at 24 € for a 2-course lunch menu, but the quality of the food was great. I had lieu jaune (probably "white fish" like all of them on english menus...) and liégois chocolat avec caramel beurre salé for dessert. Fish was oily and really well seasoned, really good and the dessert was hefty, chocolaty and with lots of caramel.Tierra del Fuego
4-6 rue Sainte Marthe, 75010 Paris. www.tierradelfuego.fr
After the perfect 'Ti Punch at the colourful bar I can't remember the name of on the same street, we had a chilean dinner with Maaria and Henna at Tierra del Fuego. It's a cozy and colourful little restaurant run by two charming chileans, a father and son, Gonzalo and Carlo (I think). A three course menu is 20 €, I had a (YUMMY!!) ceviche and a (HUGE) chili con carne and mango mousse for dessert (desserts are tiny, but since the other two courses are truckdriver-size, a small dessert is just perfecto ). They also have a fantastic chilean wine selection, a rarity in Paris, since the french (for a perfectly good reason) love and cherish their own produce. Great food, great atmosphere, charming and fast service. Just one thing: If you (Henna) hate coriander, make sure to mention it. It's everywhere and it's a-plenty.I do recommend I doooo!
Guerrisol, means "The love of my life" in french, or at least it should.
I might live to regret this, but I will now spill my best Paris shopping secret.
It's called Guerrisol and it's on Rue de Rochechouart. I'm not giving the number nor the metrostation. To deserve this, you need to work a bit... (A bribe will also work.)
This is the real deal. Not for amateurs. Not for the faint of heart. If you get confused and uncertain at H&M, forget about Guerrisol. It's for those who like to dig dig dig and who know that under 100 crappy garments there just might be the treasure, or then there will just be the 101st crappy garment. It's for those who can tell the difference between make-up stains and the never-gonna-wash-off stains. Those who know, when a missing button isn't a problem and when it is. Those, who can picture the garment in a different environment, not in the middle of faded, deformed t-shirts in a dusty warehouse-type space.
Those, who deserve to buy the perfect blue printed silk/cotton dress that makes you look slim and sophisticated, yet youthful and trendy, for 3 euros. Yes. 3. Euros. Here it is. Looks even better on a person.
Never mind the shoe selection that looks like it has passed through a dog's digestive system. Twice.
It's called Guerrisol and it's on Rue de Rochechouart. I'm not giving the number nor the metrostation. To deserve this, you need to work a bit... (A bribe will also work.)
This is the real deal. Not for amateurs. Not for the faint of heart. If you get confused and uncertain at H&M, forget about Guerrisol. It's for those who like to dig dig dig and who know that under 100 crappy garments there just might be the treasure, or then there will just be the 101st crappy garment. It's for those who can tell the difference between make-up stains and the never-gonna-wash-off stains. Those who know, when a missing button isn't a problem and when it is. Those, who can picture the garment in a different environment, not in the middle of faded, deformed t-shirts in a dusty warehouse-type space.
Those, who deserve to buy the perfect blue printed silk/cotton dress that makes you look slim and sophisticated, yet youthful and trendy, for 3 euros. Yes. 3. Euros. Here it is. Looks even better on a person.
Jul 28, 2011
For my traveling sisters
This website has been established by a Evelyn, a 70-year old traveling lady, who's been traveling solo for the last three decades. Too dangerous to travel as a single woman? Yeah right...
www.journeywoman.com/
www.journeywoman.com/
Jul 25, 2011
22 strange and unpleasant, if not quite traumatizing things I've seen on the Paris metro
Gonna say right up, that I might not be able to come up with 22. At least not on one go. But in case I fail to write down 22 things, I still have a month to come up with them... And these are in a random order. Some of them are more tragic than funny, some are kind of both...
- Château Rouge's resident crack-lady. A big, black woman with a very disoriented look in her glassy eyes can almost always be found on the direction Porte de Clignancourt side of the tracks sitting on a bench. She can be mumbling and/or shouting something incomprehensible if she has not passed out. She passes out in a seated position with her arms and legs spread in a very relaxed manner. She has almost always peed her pants so sitting on a bench on that platform is not recommendable. Also, as Heli and Ulla were also surely very pleased to witness, she sometimes takes a leak on the platform. Puddles of anything liquid on the platform are not to be stepped into. Sure, it could be just water sometimes. Or not.
- The traveling crackheads. This is a general category. They might just have passed out somewhere on the train, when the only problem they cause is the smell. Crackheads have other priorities than staying clean (no pun intended, or maybe a little one) that control their actions. If they haven't passed out (yet), they can be mumbling or shouting. Once I experienced all three options in the same carriage. Passed out and mumbling are usually only a stink problem. The shouting ones are a bit more scary, since they often are pretty aggressive and totally unpredictable. Most of the time they are screaming at people not present in the train (i.e. Sarkozy) or to an evil, invisible twin. They might even be staring directly to your direction and shouting obscenities. The thing is, that it's just the eye that is pointing at you. What the crackhead sees, can be anything, anywhere. Just hope it's not the mumbling guy cooking the last dose of crack cocaine on earth that he's seeing there, where it's just the harmless little you sitting and listening to your i-pod and breathing only through your mouth.
- Smelly people who are not on drugs (at least not so much that it shows) but still manage to produce pretty heavy and disturbing odours. This can also be divided into categories. 1: People who don't use deodorant but who do use shirts made of synthetic materials that don't breath. WHY? 2: People who might use deodorant, but it's a very, very hot day and, oh well. This could even be me. But if this is you, and if the metro is quite full, please don't hold on to anything so high that you must lift your arm. 3. People who don't wash often enough. EEEUUUUGGH! Also people who've worn the same coat for decades without washing it. WASH IT! 4. People who've just (seconds before) finished their cigarette and are getting on a really full metro right next to you and you end up breething the fumes floating around them. These fumes are probably caused by spending the day in a smoke filled room. COUGH! 5. The Sephora echantillon overdosers. These are usually tourist women who get on the metro somewhere close to a Sephora or another big cosmetics shop. They have just tried on 5 to 28 different perfumes. They can't smell them anymore after spending hours sniffing around the Chanel shelf. And you wish you couldn't either. A great way to get a banging headache also.
- Musicians. Here I mean the "artists" who get on the trains. The illegitimate ones. The ones playing in the corridors on the stations all have special authorisations and they have to pass a casting to get it. Not a very hard one obviously, judging by the frequency of panflute macchupicchu-inca/apache indian -groups blasting el condor pasas from their speakers. Most of the corridor artists seem like pretty capable musicians though. There is of course also "Raisa's favorite SDF", a (probably) homeless guy who plays hats (yes, hats) with a big smile on his face and sings/makes noise just below the escalator of the Arc de Triomphe exit at Charles de Gaulle-Etoile -station. He might not be the most capable musician, but he is capable of getting you somehow in a good mood. Or at least he'll make you laugh. A unique talent, he is. I'm pretty sure he hasn't passed the castings either... On lines 1 and 2 in particular you can "enjoy" the illegitimate entertainment. Usually it's a man or a woman, who has some kind of a stereosystem attached to a shopping trolley and a mug attached to the stereo. They climb in, turn on the background tape and start singing (besa me mucho/numa numa yeah/etc. classics), playing french horn, etc. They do a set of about 2 masterful interpretations, then leave the playback on, take a tour with their mug and get off. Then there's my personal favourite, the mini-synthethiser man. He gets on, throws a mini synthethiser on his shoulder and turns on the rythm. Tshih tshih tshih goes the rythm machine. Then he starts playing some chords and singing them as well. Aaaah aaaah aaaah hmmm hmmmm mmmmmh mmmh. Then he starts singing in some language that I don't know. But he has a pretty agreeable voice, still I can't get past the comic aspect of that mini synthethiser played vertically on his shoulder. There is also a guy in a cheap clown suit walking up and down the aisle making parrot- and fart noises. But he can't be considered as a musician I guess. And then. He shouldn't technically be mentioned, since he was on an RER train and not on a metro. But he has to be mentioned since he is a Michael Jackson impersonator. He got on the train, turned on Thriller and started dancing and doing Michael Jackson "WHOA"s and the act went on for 10 minutes at least. Totally unexpected. And fairly absurd.
- The beggars who tell their life story. Ok. Life is hard and for them it's even worse. I feel for these people I do, but it's a very uncomfortable feeling that you get when you're riding home and a pretty average looking young girl gets on and starts by apologizing for bothering everyone and then goes on explaining in a loud voice to the whole carriage everything starting from an abusive childhood to youth delinquance to unemployment to drugs to prison to not adapting the society to drugs to prison to a mental institution to trying to adapt to not finding work because of her background to having to do this. It makes you question your own moral integrity as well as her's as well as the construction of french social welfare and honestly, out of the blue on my way home from work or from wherever, it's too much for me to digest. And then I feel quilty for looking away, turning up the volume on my i-pod and not giving anything, like 99,8 % of the people. This happens often btw.
- Huge and nasty looking dogs. Ok, I admit it, I'm a recovering dog-phobic and I feel a bit unsure with dogs. And I think they can sense it and for that reason obviously want to sink their teeth into my throat. But these are the kind of dogs that you'd rather not be in a small, closed space with. They usually have a Hannibal Lecter-type of a very credible muzzle, but I always think that they could just break it apart in the manner of the Tyrannosaurus Rex in the Jurassic Parc. And they often look like they would really want to, their whole thorax moving as they pant heavily and seem kind of panicked. And sometimes that muzzle is open and the owner isn't looking that credible either, usually leaning on the dog to stay in an upright position. Call me neurotic, but those animals make me feel like getting off and catching the next train.
- A geisha.
- A couple of a certain age making out in a very drunken manner.
22 most traumatizing things seen on the Paris metro etc.
I love Les Inrockuptibles's L'anti-guide de Paris. http://blogs.lesinrocks.com/antiguideparis/
I'm so stealing their ideas to make my own lists. I'm sure I can come up with 22 traumatizing or just plain weird things I've seen on the metro. F.ex. today I saw a geisha and the angriest, most stressed looking dog ever (very sturdily muzzeld, thank god).
I'm so stealing their ideas to make my own lists. I'm sure I can come up with 22 traumatizing or just plain weird things I've seen on the metro. F.ex. today I saw a geisha and the angriest, most stressed looking dog ever (very sturdily muzzeld, thank god).
Jul 24, 2011
Those business cards
Here are the business cards I mentioned in my first restaurant post.
To turn this post into a fun, interactive and most of all incredibly exciting, though ridiculously easy, game, I am not telling wich card belongs to wich restaurant. You have to figure it out yourself.
To turn this post into a fun, interactive and most of all incredibly exciting, though ridiculously easy, game, I am not telling wich card belongs to wich restaurant. You have to figure it out yourself.
Jul 23, 2011
More places where I ate
Looking through my pictures, I found these places to add to my list of restaurants:
Chéz Eugène
17, pl du Tertre, 75018 Paris. http://www.chezeugene.fr
This big and touristy creperie is situated on the Place du Tertre square up in the heart of the Montmartre "tourist district" right behind the Sacré Coeur. Many guide books describe the square as "filled with portrait artists". I personally would describe it as "filled with aging alcoholics who for some reason think I would like to have a big-toothed charichature/a portrait drawing that looks like one of those make-up heads that I had as a child, of myself and that I would happily pay 20 € + for it". In the context of that square, this is a relatively nice place to go to (but within this context only!). Not expensive, food is worth it anf service is efficient. The waiters all wear braces and a cap and are your typical tourist restaurant tip-hungry young men. Some of them are even kind of cute, so even if they're really flirting with your wallet (nice try), their little winks do warm a single girl's frozen heart a bit, I have to admit. Apparently this place also has some cabaret-side to it, but I know nothing of that. I've had dinner here with Raisa and her parents and lunch with Mari and Annika. I always eat the Crèpe "Chéz Eugène" with chicken, mushroom, cheese and egg (see picture).
I have to add here that just a street away from Place du Tertre there is a really cool créperie/bar that I actually honestly would like to recommed. It has the most awful toilets, reminds me of many bars I like. Door not locking, never any paper, dishwasher in guise of a hand soap etc. I'll go check the name of the place and add all the details.
Paradis du Fruit
A chain of restaurants around the city. www.leparadisdufruit.fr/
This is a perpetual easy-to-go destination. They're everywhere and they're all the same. As the name hints, the speciality is fruits and they do in fact have fantastic fruit cocktails (non-alcoholic). They also have a nice "build-your-own-course" type of a menu solution with 20 little things to choose from. And be warned: Their ice creams are HUGE. The last one I had was probably 30cm high. Now that's what I call an ice cream. Except that now that I think of it, I can't call it an ice cream since it was a frozen yoghurt, but that's just technicalities. Raisa loves the place, so we were there on the pl de la Bastille for her b-day with also Joachim, Saija and Hamada and the boyzz, Elias & Adam. (Elias anecdote: When Raisa mentioned Gare de Lyon, Elias started explaining me about the lions of this "Gare de Lions". Love those kids.) We also went to the St Germain de Prés -one with Raisa, Mari and Annika and I had lunch with Milda once in the one on George V. A good place also on the day after, those fruit cocktails are so refreshing and make you feel cleansed if you have drenched your insides in alcohol the night before. Citronnade Sicilienne is my favorite. Not too sweet, nice and zesty with a hint of fresh mint. I think I need one now...
O'Kay Café
51 bis, Quai de Loire, 75019 Paris.
The best part about this place is the view. The terrace is practically on the Bassin de la Villette. We came here after a free Caribou concert at the Parc de la Villette with Henna, Elisa and Annemari. The food was basic, I had a crèpe again. Probably a complète (ham, cheese, egg, the classic and the best) and I remember the absurd difficulty of trying to get une carafe d'eau, a jug of tap water. (btw if you should learn only one french expression ever, that would be the one. Almost always the tap water is free, it's completely, absolutely drinkable as well and doesn't taste any worse than any water you could get from a tap in Turku. If you just ask for "still water" they will bring you a bottle of Evian or Vittel. And you have to pay. Plus, it's less ecologic. So repeat after me: Une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plaît.) We asked for this probably about 10 times but it never came so we just drank wine (tough life). And the waiter had kind of stupid jokes, but the waiters here often have. Just smile and then disapprove in finnish. But once more: One of the nicest terraces in Paris.
Le Limousin
1, rue de Satory, 78000 Versailles. versailles/restaurant_le-limousin
This is in Versailles and I definitely recommed going here to eat on your Versailles day rather than paying the same money for something much less particular in the restaurants right by the castle. I haven't been to those nor have I been to the other restaurants on this restaurant-filled street where Le Limousin is, but in a totally unfair, unfouded and unjustified manner I reserve the right to declare Le Limousin the best. We had lunch there on our office wellbeing-day after visiting the château and it was such a nice experience. The speciality is gigot d'agneau, some part of lamb, please excuse my lack of lamb bodypart vocabulary here. It's sliced at the table by a guy who looks like he's had a slice or few himself. I had that for main course, obviously. For started I had museau, cow's face/nose in vinegar sauce. Yes, in France they eat all parts and most of all, they know how to make them edible. My museau was sliced thin like your average charcuterie and served with plenty of creamy vinegar sauce. It tasted like a very good ham, only a little bit leathery. I'm not squeamish at all about eating something that they don't sell at your average super market and every time I've tried something like this, I've been very happy I did. The only thing to remember when eating these more exotic animal parts is that the more you pay, the more likely you're going to get the real deal. These parts are very difficult to prepare and to cook (I've learned this by watching Top Chef here) and can have unpleasant flavor, odors and textures if not prepared right. I guess the very best stuff you would get in some countryside village in an old lady's kitchen, where she would be serving the head of her beloved veal, that she has been preparing for hours. I have yet to try that. For dessert I had (a bucketful) of crème de marron with vanilla ice cream and chantilly with almond chips. I could get so fat here. All drenched down with some lovely Pomérol. We had champagne also as an apéritif and it was probably the freshest, nicest champagne I've ever had. I have completely forgotten the brand, obviously. And to add to this our waiter was hilarious. His jokes actually were funny. He was also super professional, I love the professionalism of the waiters in some places here, the little metallic spatulas for wiping bread crumbs from the table on a little plate with a folded cloth serviette on it, and all the rest of the tricks of the trade. Please never ever make them disappear. As you might have guessed by now, it's not the cheapest one, but not totally unaffordable either. And oh how worth every cent.
Le Café Charbon
109, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris. www.lecafecharbon.com
This is a "typical" bar-brasserie type of a place on rue Oberkampf (a super spot for an evening/night out in Paris with it's bars, restaurants and a really nice concert venue, Le Nouveau Casino.) Waiters are nice, atmosphere is relaxed and the food is good and so are the prices. I ate Encornets farcis de Piperade avec pommes de terre confits de l'huile d'olive (see photo). I ordered it for the simple reason that none of us four francophone/francophile eaters knew what it was ( I mean the first part was a mystery, potatoes in olive oil is the sort of food vocabulary that even I can master.) and the rest was your basic brasserie dishes, all of wich I've already tasted somewhere. And making a blind order is just so much fun. When I got the plate the encornets looked like endives and that's what I assumed they would be, since often farcis is some kind of stuffed vegetables, usually peppers or tomatoes (yum yum both of them). I wasn't too pleased because I'm not a fan of endives, but thought well, I only have myself to blame for ordering blind. I was pleasantly surprised as I cut into my dish, wich turned out to be stuffed seafood instead. The stuffing was nice and spicy with peppers and juicy sauce. A google later I now know that I ate this:
stuffed with this:
So I had a lovely, basque/gascon dish by accident. Ace! I almost feel like I've been to the sea. Almost...
Also, as I got home and went to bed, I read a chapter of Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast" (yep, that's the reason for the name of this blog), that tells about the years he spent in Paris. And in this very chapter he ate potatoes in olive oil. Just like me. And he really enjoyed them, wiping the rest of the oil on a piece of bread. I totally knew what he was talking about. Ernie and me, were basically BFF's now, I think. Since we both like potatoes in olive oil.
The only negative thing to say is that the restaurant had a funny, "fin de soirée" type of an unpleasant smell of human origine floating into our noses when it wasn't covered by the aromas of the food. It wasn't overpowering but everyone could smell it. But that aside, do eat here.
That's about it for now. I'm so hungry.
 |
| "Chéz Eugène" |
17, pl du Tertre, 75018 Paris. http://www.chezeugene.fr
This big and touristy creperie is situated on the Place du Tertre square up in the heart of the Montmartre "tourist district" right behind the Sacré Coeur. Many guide books describe the square as "filled with portrait artists". I personally would describe it as "filled with aging alcoholics who for some reason think I would like to have a big-toothed charichature/a portrait drawing that looks like one of those make-up heads that I had as a child, of myself and that I would happily pay 20 € + for it". In the context of that square, this is a relatively nice place to go to (but within this context only!). Not expensive, food is worth it anf service is efficient. The waiters all wear braces and a cap and are your typical tourist restaurant tip-hungry young men. Some of them are even kind of cute, so even if they're really flirting with your wallet (nice try), their little winks do warm a single girl's frozen heart a bit, I have to admit. Apparently this place also has some cabaret-side to it, but I know nothing of that. I've had dinner here with Raisa and her parents and lunch with Mari and Annika. I always eat the Crèpe "Chéz Eugène" with chicken, mushroom, cheese and egg (see picture).
I have to add here that just a street away from Place du Tertre there is a really cool créperie/bar that I actually honestly would like to recommed. It has the most awful toilets, reminds me of many bars I like. Door not locking, never any paper, dishwasher in guise of a hand soap etc. I'll go check the name of the place and add all the details.
 |
| Paradis du Fruit |
Paradis du Fruit
A chain of restaurants around the city. www.leparadisdufruit.fr/
This is a perpetual easy-to-go destination. They're everywhere and they're all the same. As the name hints, the speciality is fruits and they do in fact have fantastic fruit cocktails (non-alcoholic). They also have a nice "build-your-own-course" type of a menu solution with 20 little things to choose from. And be warned: Their ice creams are HUGE. The last one I had was probably 30cm high. Now that's what I call an ice cream. Except that now that I think of it, I can't call it an ice cream since it was a frozen yoghurt, but that's just technicalities. Raisa loves the place, so we were there on the pl de la Bastille for her b-day with also Joachim, Saija and Hamada and the boyzz, Elias & Adam. (Elias anecdote: When Raisa mentioned Gare de Lyon, Elias started explaining me about the lions of this "Gare de Lions". Love those kids.) We also went to the St Germain de Prés -one with Raisa, Mari and Annika and I had lunch with Milda once in the one on George V. A good place also on the day after, those fruit cocktails are so refreshing and make you feel cleansed if you have drenched your insides in alcohol the night before. Citronnade Sicilienne is my favorite. Not too sweet, nice and zesty with a hint of fresh mint. I think I need one now...
O'Kay Café
 |
| View from the terrace of O'Kay Café |
The best part about this place is the view. The terrace is practically on the Bassin de la Villette. We came here after a free Caribou concert at the Parc de la Villette with Henna, Elisa and Annemari. The food was basic, I had a crèpe again. Probably a complète (ham, cheese, egg, the classic and the best) and I remember the absurd difficulty of trying to get une carafe d'eau, a jug of tap water. (btw if you should learn only one french expression ever, that would be the one. Almost always the tap water is free, it's completely, absolutely drinkable as well and doesn't taste any worse than any water you could get from a tap in Turku. If you just ask for "still water" they will bring you a bottle of Evian or Vittel. And you have to pay. Plus, it's less ecologic. So repeat after me: Une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plaît.) We asked for this probably about 10 times but it never came so we just drank wine (tough life). And the waiter had kind of stupid jokes, but the waiters here often have. Just smile and then disapprove in finnish. But once more: One of the nicest terraces in Paris.
 | |
| Museau at Le Limousin |
1, rue de Satory, 78000 Versailles. versailles/restaurant_le-limousin
This is in Versailles and I definitely recommed going here to eat on your Versailles day rather than paying the same money for something much less particular in the restaurants right by the castle. I haven't been to those nor have I been to the other restaurants on this restaurant-filled street where Le Limousin is, but in a totally unfair, unfouded and unjustified manner I reserve the right to declare Le Limousin the best. We had lunch there on our office wellbeing-day after visiting the château and it was such a nice experience. The speciality is gigot d'agneau, some part of lamb, please excuse my lack of lamb bodypart vocabulary here. It's sliced at the table by a guy who looks like he's had a slice or few himself. I had that for main course, obviously. For started I had museau, cow's face/nose in vinegar sauce. Yes, in France they eat all parts and most of all, they know how to make them edible. My museau was sliced thin like your average charcuterie and served with plenty of creamy vinegar sauce. It tasted like a very good ham, only a little bit leathery. I'm not squeamish at all about eating something that they don't sell at your average super market and every time I've tried something like this, I've been very happy I did. The only thing to remember when eating these more exotic animal parts is that the more you pay, the more likely you're going to get the real deal. These parts are very difficult to prepare and to cook (I've learned this by watching Top Chef here) and can have unpleasant flavor, odors and textures if not prepared right. I guess the very best stuff you would get in some countryside village in an old lady's kitchen, where she would be serving the head of her beloved veal, that she has been preparing for hours. I have yet to try that. For dessert I had (a bucketful) of crème de marron with vanilla ice cream and chantilly with almond chips. I could get so fat here. All drenched down with some lovely Pomérol. We had champagne also as an apéritif and it was probably the freshest, nicest champagne I've ever had. I have completely forgotten the brand, obviously. And to add to this our waiter was hilarious. His jokes actually were funny. He was also super professional, I love the professionalism of the waiters in some places here, the little metallic spatulas for wiping bread crumbs from the table on a little plate with a folded cloth serviette on it, and all the rest of the tricks of the trade. Please never ever make them disappear. As you might have guessed by now, it's not the cheapest one, but not totally unaffordable either. And oh how worth every cent.
Le Café Charbon
 |
| Le Café Charbon |
This is a "typical" bar-brasserie type of a place on rue Oberkampf (a super spot for an evening/night out in Paris with it's bars, restaurants and a really nice concert venue, Le Nouveau Casino.) Waiters are nice, atmosphere is relaxed and the food is good and so are the prices. I ate Encornets farcis de Piperade avec pommes de terre confits de l'huile d'olive (see photo). I ordered it for the simple reason that none of us four francophone/francophile eaters knew what it was ( I mean the first part was a mystery, potatoes in olive oil is the sort of food vocabulary that even I can master.) and the rest was your basic brasserie dishes, all of wich I've already tasted somewhere. And making a blind order is just so much fun. When I got the plate the encornets looked like endives and that's what I assumed they would be, since often farcis is some kind of stuffed vegetables, usually peppers or tomatoes (yum yum both of them). I wasn't too pleased because I'm not a fan of endives, but thought well, I only have myself to blame for ordering blind. I was pleasantly surprised as I cut into my dish, wich turned out to be stuffed seafood instead. The stuffing was nice and spicy with peppers and juicy sauce. A google later I now know that I ate this:
So I had a lovely, basque/gascon dish by accident. Ace! I almost feel like I've been to the sea. Almost...
Also, as I got home and went to bed, I read a chapter of Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast" (yep, that's the reason for the name of this blog), that tells about the years he spent in Paris. And in this very chapter he ate potatoes in olive oil. Just like me. And he really enjoyed them, wiping the rest of the oil on a piece of bread. I totally knew what he was talking about. Ernie and me, were basically BFF's now, I think. Since we both like potatoes in olive oil.
The only negative thing to say is that the restaurant had a funny, "fin de soirée" type of an unpleasant smell of human origine floating into our noses when it wasn't covered by the aromas of the food. It wasn't overpowering but everyone could smell it. But that aside, do eat here.
That's about it for now. I'm so hungry.
Jul 22, 2011
Places where I ate
I'm already hungry but cooking that fish seems like so much work. My plan now is to build up my hunger by writing about restaurants. Then I will be so hungry that I have no other choice but to drag myself to that pan and stir up that piece of salmon that I'm planning to enjoy with some Ikea fish sauce. Here goes.
Considering how desperately poor I've been here, I've managed to have some pretty good meals. I'm basing the following list of restaurants on the business cards I have piled up in my wallet from all the nice places (also if they had very nice business cards, even if the food wasn't that special...). So I've actually been to these places, they're not run by a friend and no-one's paying me (unfortunately) to say nice things about them. If the food wasn't worth mentioning, usually the company or the occassion was.
I'm also excluding picnic meals here. Obviously they're the best.
Crépérie Beaubourg
2 rue Brisemiche, 75004 Paris
Business card appearance: Small and orange, 3 twiggy female characters dressed in traditional breton attire dancing/jumping on a background of (wtf) the map of Mid- and South America + Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Backside blank.
I've been to this touristy/traditional crèpe-restaurant twice. First with Raisa for some kind of chocolate-crème de marron-chantilly -overload soon if not immediately after I arrived. I was there also with Minja once soon after she arrived. It's located right next to Beaubourg/ Centre Pompidou (Why does that place have two names...?) in a touristy neighbourhood. But in that area it's a nice place to go to for a crèpe and a coupe (a little teacup) of cider. The real kind where you don't add ice (god forbid).
L'Été en Pente Douce
23 rue Muller, 75018 Paris.
Business card appearance: Small, but larger than Créperie Beaubourg's. A pretty nice black and white drawing of the terrace seen from the stairs of Montmartre. A little Sacré Coeur drawn to the upper corner. A cute handdrawn map on the backside with some info.
This is possibly one of the most photographed terraces in Paris. It's right down the east side stairs from Sacré Coeur and has irresistibly photogenic colorful metal tables. It sure is cute. It's also a very short walk from home for me so I've been there a few times. I have never eaten there though, but Mari and Anna had had some cheese there. And wine. So that was good. I've also had some wine there with Justine, it was good. And the waiters are kinda hot.
Chamarré Montmartre
52, rue Lamarck, 75018 Paris.
Business card appearance: Standard size. Metallic, steel gray base colour. Very minimalist with logo, name, chef's name, website. On the backside just chef's name (he's famous apparently) and contact info. Chic.
We ate here at our boss's going away dinner. The cheapest menu was 50 € for 5 courses dégustation, meaning two small starters, two small maincourses and a light dessert. And a bottle of wine was about as much as the menu. Needless to say, I wasn't paying for this myself. This menu was essentially fish and the chef is known for his fruit and seafood combos. Everything was delicious, although half of the time I didn't know what I was eating, because there was no list, the menu changes every day according to available ingredients and so the waiter told us every time what we were being served. And I forgot it right away since there were at least 5 ingredients in each course and fish names, exotic fruits, food vocabulary... Not my strongest point. Even if I'm completely hooked on french cooking reality shows like Top Chef (each episode is 3h!) since they just have such an amazing knowledge of the most unlikely ingredients.
The food was good and the restaurant was very chic and wines were damn expensive. I'm sure my boss enjoyed it, I personally prefer more simple, more familiar feel. Plus it was expensive, not on a parisian scale but totally out of reach on a usual student/intern/traveler scale. And the dessert was a "fruit tartar". What a waste of space. Icy fruit mush. Whatever.
Marcel
1, Villa Léandre, 75018 Paris
Business card appearance: Smallish. Grey with MARCEL typed in the middle in black blocks. Minimalist chic. What else... Info on the backside.
This is THE bobo-brunch haunt on the northside of Montmartre. Cramped and pricy so obviously the place to be. Went there with Minja and Hanna for an overpriced brunch on a sunny day in march or april. Everything was oh so bio. To be a bobo you have to be bio, baby. I still somehow like it though, but probably only because I'm such a wannabe bobo.
Miroir
94, rue des Martyrs, 75018 Paris
Business card appearance: Standard size. Red background with Miroir printed in white 4 times, twice upside down. Backside grey with info printed in black. Also info the the Cave du Miroir, the restaurant's wine shop opposite across the street.
A lovely place close to rue des Abbesses. Got the tip from my collegue Steve, our resident restaurant guide... They also have a changing menu for about 25 euros + wine. Typical neo-bistro food, thus typically french enough for visitors f.ex. Wines are great, since they have their own wine shop as well. Also a walking distance from home for me. Only negative point is that you have to book EARLY. Otherwise you might get a table at 19h30 but you will (yes you must) give it up at 21h. And 1h30 is not a nice timespace for a proper dinner. I know, I've tested. Not good. But the restaurant otherwise is really nice.
Grain d'Orge
15, rue de l'Arc de Triomphe,75017 Paris
Business card appearance: Standard size. Buttery yellowish base, shiny finish, name and address plus some art-deco-ish stuff printed in burgundy. Map on the backside.
We ate here with two of our bosses and my collegues so I the price range is about the same as at Chamarrée. We went here also because it's a walking distance from the office and it's yet another Steve's suggetion. The kitchen is flemish and I had some *flemish word* fish. Everything was good and pricey. Went for drinks afterwards and The Big Boss promised us an even pricier dinner if we reach 300 000 in sales. Which we have! Looking forward to the next treat...
Le Basilic
33, rue Lepic, 75018 Paris.
Business card appearance: Standard size, rounded corners. Another one with a light yellowish butterish base. A drawing of the entrance to the restaurant in brown. It's all covered in vines. Info in black on the backside and a print of a vine sprout.
We had dinner here with Mari and Annika. Had to wait a bit to get in but nothing too bad. It was ok priced, normal stuff, a bit touristy with all kinds of frenchy trinkets around as decoration but never mind. The company was marvellous and we had a great 9 flavour ice cream assortment as a special dessert. Also a walking distance from home.
La Fourmi Ailée
5,rue du Fouarre, 75005 Paris.
Business card appearance: Like something I used to draw as a kid. A colourful picture of the entrance and terrace of the restaurant and some info in curlywurly letters. Map (drawn in the same kiddy style) on the back.
We ate here with Justyna and Nico. We stumbled upon it after wondering around the 5th looking for a restaurant that was open, maybe it was sunday or smth, I don't know why they were all closed. It was directed by a fairly obvious gay couple, they were nice but pretty slow and forgetful. But it was nice to eat with my surprise visitors. I think we had crèpes. Basic crèpes they were.
Rimal
109, Blvd St. Germain, 75006 Paris.
Business card appearance: White background, logo, superbasic. Blank backside.
This is my favorite lebanese sandwich place ever (also the first one I've been to...). You can eat sur place or have a take-away lunch at the Jardin du Luxembourg really close by. They have about 20 varieties of sandwiches (huge, filled pitas) and a menu is only 10 euros. Plus, their upstairs is always really calm. Great for gossip. I came here first time with Mari and Annika, since then I've been there with pretty much everyone or at least advertised it.
Café de l'Industrie
16, rue Sabin.
I don't have their business card, just a gorgeous piece of paper with my hand drawn incomprehensible map.
Been here many times as well. Good prices, always good company. Really noisy though if full. But when wouldn't it be a bit noisy in Paris. Love this place. Thanks to Henna for taking us there with Elisa for the first time before going to see Rubik's gig (that was greeeeat).
I'm ending my restaurant report here for now. I'll add more as they come up. Now I'm damn hungry.
Considering how desperately poor I've been here, I've managed to have some pretty good meals. I'm basing the following list of restaurants on the business cards I have piled up in my wallet from all the nice places (also if they had very nice business cards, even if the food wasn't that special...). So I've actually been to these places, they're not run by a friend and no-one's paying me (unfortunately) to say nice things about them. If the food wasn't worth mentioning, usually the company or the occassion was.
I'm also excluding picnic meals here. Obviously they're the best.
Crépérie Beaubourg
2 rue Brisemiche, 75004 Paris
Business card appearance: Small and orange, 3 twiggy female characters dressed in traditional breton attire dancing/jumping on a background of (wtf) the map of Mid- and South America + Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Backside blank.
I've been to this touristy/traditional crèpe-restaurant twice. First with Raisa for some kind of chocolate-crème de marron-chantilly -overload soon if not immediately after I arrived. I was there also with Minja once soon after she arrived. It's located right next to Beaubourg/ Centre Pompidou (Why does that place have two names...?) in a touristy neighbourhood. But in that area it's a nice place to go to for a crèpe and a coupe (a little teacup) of cider. The real kind where you don't add ice (god forbid).
L'Été en Pente Douce
23 rue Muller, 75018 Paris.
Business card appearance: Small, but larger than Créperie Beaubourg's. A pretty nice black and white drawing of the terrace seen from the stairs of Montmartre. A little Sacré Coeur drawn to the upper corner. A cute handdrawn map on the backside with some info.
This is possibly one of the most photographed terraces in Paris. It's right down the east side stairs from Sacré Coeur and has irresistibly photogenic colorful metal tables. It sure is cute. It's also a very short walk from home for me so I've been there a few times. I have never eaten there though, but Mari and Anna had had some cheese there. And wine. So that was good. I've also had some wine there with Justine, it was good. And the waiters are kinda hot.
Chamarré Montmartre
52, rue Lamarck, 75018 Paris.
Business card appearance: Standard size. Metallic, steel gray base colour. Very minimalist with logo, name, chef's name, website. On the backside just chef's name (he's famous apparently) and contact info. Chic.
We ate here at our boss's going away dinner. The cheapest menu was 50 € for 5 courses dégustation, meaning two small starters, two small maincourses and a light dessert. And a bottle of wine was about as much as the menu. Needless to say, I wasn't paying for this myself. This menu was essentially fish and the chef is known for his fruit and seafood combos. Everything was delicious, although half of the time I didn't know what I was eating, because there was no list, the menu changes every day according to available ingredients and so the waiter told us every time what we were being served. And I forgot it right away since there were at least 5 ingredients in each course and fish names, exotic fruits, food vocabulary... Not my strongest point. Even if I'm completely hooked on french cooking reality shows like Top Chef (each episode is 3h!) since they just have such an amazing knowledge of the most unlikely ingredients.
The food was good and the restaurant was very chic and wines were damn expensive. I'm sure my boss enjoyed it, I personally prefer more simple, more familiar feel. Plus it was expensive, not on a parisian scale but totally out of reach on a usual student/intern/traveler scale. And the dessert was a "fruit tartar". What a waste of space. Icy fruit mush. Whatever.
Marcel
1, Villa Léandre, 75018 Paris
Business card appearance: Smallish. Grey with MARCEL typed in the middle in black blocks. Minimalist chic. What else... Info on the backside.
This is THE bobo-brunch haunt on the northside of Montmartre. Cramped and pricy so obviously the place to be. Went there with Minja and Hanna for an overpriced brunch on a sunny day in march or april. Everything was oh so bio. To be a bobo you have to be bio, baby. I still somehow like it though, but probably only because I'm such a wannabe bobo.
Miroir
94, rue des Martyrs, 75018 Paris
Business card appearance: Standard size. Red background with Miroir printed in white 4 times, twice upside down. Backside grey with info printed in black. Also info the the Cave du Miroir, the restaurant's wine shop opposite across the street.
A lovely place close to rue des Abbesses. Got the tip from my collegue Steve, our resident restaurant guide... They also have a changing menu for about 25 euros + wine. Typical neo-bistro food, thus typically french enough for visitors f.ex. Wines are great, since they have their own wine shop as well. Also a walking distance from home for me. Only negative point is that you have to book EARLY. Otherwise you might get a table at 19h30 but you will (yes you must) give it up at 21h. And 1h30 is not a nice timespace for a proper dinner. I know, I've tested. Not good. But the restaurant otherwise is really nice.
Grain d'Orge
 |
| Grain d'Orge |
Business card appearance: Standard size. Buttery yellowish base, shiny finish, name and address plus some art-deco-ish stuff printed in burgundy. Map on the backside.
We ate here with two of our bosses and my collegues so I the price range is about the same as at Chamarrée. We went here also because it's a walking distance from the office and it's yet another Steve's suggetion. The kitchen is flemish and I had some *flemish word* fish. Everything was good and pricey. Went for drinks afterwards and The Big Boss promised us an even pricier dinner if we reach 300 000 in sales. Which we have! Looking forward to the next treat...
Le Basilic
33, rue Lepic, 75018 Paris.
 |
| Le Basilic |
We had dinner here with Mari and Annika. Had to wait a bit to get in but nothing too bad. It was ok priced, normal stuff, a bit touristy with all kinds of frenchy trinkets around as decoration but never mind. The company was marvellous and we had a great 9 flavour ice cream assortment as a special dessert. Also a walking distance from home.
La Fourmi Ailée
5,rue du Fouarre, 75005 Paris.
Business card appearance: Like something I used to draw as a kid. A colourful picture of the entrance and terrace of the restaurant and some info in curlywurly letters. Map (drawn in the same kiddy style) on the back.
We ate here with Justyna and Nico. We stumbled upon it after wondering around the 5th looking for a restaurant that was open, maybe it was sunday or smth, I don't know why they were all closed. It was directed by a fairly obvious gay couple, they were nice but pretty slow and forgetful. But it was nice to eat with my surprise visitors. I think we had crèpes. Basic crèpes they were.
 |
| Rimal take-away |
109, Blvd St. Germain, 75006 Paris.
Business card appearance: White background, logo, superbasic. Blank backside.
This is my favorite lebanese sandwich place ever (also the first one I've been to...). You can eat sur place or have a take-away lunch at the Jardin du Luxembourg really close by. They have about 20 varieties of sandwiches (huge, filled pitas) and a menu is only 10 euros. Plus, their upstairs is always really calm. Great for gossip. I came here first time with Mari and Annika, since then I've been there with pretty much everyone or at least advertised it.
 |
| Café de l'Industrie |
Café de l'Industrie
16, rue Sabin.
I don't have their business card, just a gorgeous piece of paper with my hand drawn incomprehensible map.
Been here many times as well. Good prices, always good company. Really noisy though if full. But when wouldn't it be a bit noisy in Paris. Love this place. Thanks to Henna for taking us there with Elisa for the first time before going to see Rubik's gig (that was greeeeat).
I'm ending my restaurant report here for now. I'll add more as they come up. Now I'm damn hungry.
"I had a home in Paris, at the foot of the Montmartre hill"
What a better way to start this blog dedicated to my 6 months (well) spent in Paris than the (slightly modified) starting phrase of Karen Blixen's "Out of Africa". Not because I love the book and the film and the way Meryl Streep speaks with a lovely fake accent in the movie and how incredibly beautiful she was (still is) and I don't mind a young Robert Redford either. It's because of and in honor of my hustling, misunderstood and colourful african neighbourhood in the Goutte d'Or and because of the love/hate relationship I have with it. And that's the kind of relationship I have with Paris in general, in the matter of a fact.
And what a better time to start writing about my view of this city than 5 months into my stay in Paris. By now, I've realized that Amélie Poulain must've never wondered down to Boulevard Barbés just down a few streets to the east of her magical Montmartre of winking statues and a Matthieu Kassovitz that manages to follow her leads left on the Sacré Coeur stairs before a group of 346 japanese tourists marches in a disorderly manner all over them. I also realized watching Woody Allen's "Midnight in Paris" here that when Owen Wilson says "I really love walking in Paris", he means he REALLY loves it, since he has just walked from Montmarte down to the Grand Palais in about 30 seconds. The distance is 2.659 km. He says this to a gorgeous parisian girl who sells old music equipment and old records at the Marché Paul-Bert. The grumpy old men selling antiques over there and the extremely (EXTREMELY) groomed retro design-furniture (prizes starting from 5000 € a chair) salesment at that very market must have eaten her (they're always eating for some reason, and look like they shouldn't be bothered). They have also taken over her stall, since no-one sells music equipment there. Or then she ran off with that Owen Wilson character and they're now happily married somewhere in the States, polishing gramphones and listening to early jazz and charleston. Who knows. My point is, salespeople down there are never attractive young women.
I've also started to turn a bit cynic/overly sarcastic (see above), I've started grunting and going "pppphhhffff pppppphhhhhfff" when someone blocks my way. If it's a tourist, it's a triple ppphhhfff. If it's the african ladies selling random unknown vegetables just outside my entrance, hence blocking it, they get a "PARDOOON MESDAMMMES!". These are typical parisian tics. I've also started to show signs of passive aggressiveness when it comes to the traffic, i.e. taxis burning red lights and almost running over my toes. They've been known to get their cars punched/yelled at/a murderly glance by me. If I start thinking out loud in a grocery store ("olives c'est bon... ils sont où les fruits... Aprés il me faut des surgelées...") like half of the population here, regardless of age, sex or ethnic background, then please somebody stop me. It's just too mental patient-y for my taste.
Here I will share the things I've done, the things I would love to do, the things I haven't done, the things I won't do, the things I think everyone should do, the things I think no-one should do, but what they should do instead, the places I've been, the things I've seen, the treasures I've uncovered, the things I've eaten, the songs I've heard, the things I hate, and most of all, the things and people I love. After all, they call it the city of love...
And why am I here? On an internship at the Finnish Trade Center (I'm finnish), that's why. Traveling 20 minutes by metro between Africa and the business world every day. And being able to do that is just one of the things I love about Paris.
And what a better time to start writing about my view of this city than 5 months into my stay in Paris. By now, I've realized that Amélie Poulain must've never wondered down to Boulevard Barbés just down a few streets to the east of her magical Montmartre of winking statues and a Matthieu Kassovitz that manages to follow her leads left on the Sacré Coeur stairs before a group of 346 japanese tourists marches in a disorderly manner all over them. I also realized watching Woody Allen's "Midnight in Paris" here that when Owen Wilson says "I really love walking in Paris", he means he REALLY loves it, since he has just walked from Montmarte down to the Grand Palais in about 30 seconds. The distance is 2.659 km. He says this to a gorgeous parisian girl who sells old music equipment and old records at the Marché Paul-Bert. The grumpy old men selling antiques over there and the extremely (EXTREMELY) groomed retro design-furniture (prizes starting from 5000 € a chair) salesment at that very market must have eaten her (they're always eating for some reason, and look like they shouldn't be bothered). They have also taken over her stall, since no-one sells music equipment there. Or then she ran off with that Owen Wilson character and they're now happily married somewhere in the States, polishing gramphones and listening to early jazz and charleston. Who knows. My point is, salespeople down there are never attractive young women.
I've also started to turn a bit cynic/overly sarcastic (see above), I've started grunting and going "pppphhhffff pppppphhhhhfff" when someone blocks my way. If it's a tourist, it's a triple ppphhhfff. If it's the african ladies selling random unknown vegetables just outside my entrance, hence blocking it, they get a "PARDOOON MESDAMMMES!". These are typical parisian tics. I've also started to show signs of passive aggressiveness when it comes to the traffic, i.e. taxis burning red lights and almost running over my toes. They've been known to get their cars punched/yelled at/a murderly glance by me. If I start thinking out loud in a grocery store ("olives c'est bon... ils sont où les fruits... Aprés il me faut des surgelées...") like half of the population here, regardless of age, sex or ethnic background, then please somebody stop me. It's just too mental patient-y for my taste.
Here I will share the things I've done, the things I would love to do, the things I haven't done, the things I won't do, the things I think everyone should do, the things I think no-one should do, but what they should do instead, the places I've been, the things I've seen, the treasures I've uncovered, the things I've eaten, the songs I've heard, the things I hate, and most of all, the things and people I love. After all, they call it the city of love...
And why am I here? On an internship at the Finnish Trade Center (I'm finnish), that's why. Traveling 20 minutes by metro between Africa and the business world every day. And being able to do that is just one of the things I love about Paris.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)